My friend Missy and I regularly make lunch plans to try fun new restaurants, but then one or the other of us gets busy at work, and our plans get pushed back one week, then another, and so on… suffice it to say that by the time we made it to the original M Burger, they had already opened a second location. Last week, we finally visited grahamwich for a quick dinner on our way to see Blue Valentine. We snuck some of the g’wich popcorn into the theatre with us, a highly prescient idea from Missy. As it turned out, we needed the occasional whiff of rosemary and truffle oil to remind us, while watching the most depressing movie ever, that there is still joy in the world.
First of all, this is a gorgeous space. What with the vintage industrial lighting, dark wood, and ample chalkboards, it is basically my dream kitchen on a restaurant scale. The hastily snapped cell phone picture above does it no justice. As for the food- this being a sandwich joint, I’ll put my one criticism directly in the middle. Going for the full grahamwich experience, we ordered the house-made lemon lime and orange ginger sodas, and they were pretty lackluster and flat. In fact, the next day I bought oranges and fresh ginger, thinking I would attempt a version more to my liking. It dawned on me, however, that if Graham Elliot’s version is only mediocre, the odds of me improving upon it were slim and anyway, I would rather just drink a seltzer water. So skip the sodas.
The food, however, was spot on. Missy had the grilled cheese, which was completely decadent and delicious. I’d like to get my hands on a jar of their tomato jam- it adds the perfect acidity and a pleasing texture to cheddar cheese. But my sandwich was really the perfect choice for a slightly obsessive eater such as myself. The smoked whitefish on naan is the most perfectly balanced sandwich I’ve ever had. The bread was spread literally edge to edge with curry aioli, with fish, carrots, crushed marcona almonds, and raisin chutney sprinkled across in perfect proportion. Every bite had a gratifying little taste of each ingredient. Appealing to the palate and soothing to the psyche… I will certainly go back to grahamwich, but I doubt I could order anything else, knowing that such equilibrium is possible in a sandwich.